Scarba kelp eating goats!

But I was on a 60 hp launch - do you think I'm mad! Farsain was skippered by Duncan Phillips who knows these waters like the back of his hand. He was the one who took Robson Green out there when he swam the gulf. He reckoned that today was a 3 or 4 on a scale of 1 to 10 - so you can imagine.

Standing wave

The tidal race beginning

Tidal race near Corryvreckan

Approaching Corryvreckan - Snap decision. I just couldn't resist it.

Looking south towards the hills of Islay

Looking south down the Sound of Jura from Craobh

But for the moment I'm in this beautiful place

In reference to chart below

My dividers point to my next intended destination – a small sheltered anchorage just around the corner from the mighty Corryvreckan. Between the islands of Jura to the south and Scarba to the north lies this infamous gulf – 1.5 miles long and little more than half a mile wide at its narrowest point. Corryvreckan is the third most powerful tidal race and whirlpool in the world. The Clyde Cruising Club sailing directions state some sobering facts. “The warnings which invariably accompany descriptions of this notorious gulf should be carefully heeded. In calm weather at slack water the whole Gulf becomes placid and gives no hint of its ferocious nature under certain conditions of wind and tide. It is at its most dangerous when an Atlantic swell, having built up after several days of strong westerly winds, meets a flood tide. A passage at this time would be unthinkable”. Navigated at the wrong moment, even in calm conditions walls of water up to 4m high can be encountered , double that height if a heavy westerly swell is present. I think I’ll just take a walk from my anchorage and have a look.

The notorious Corryvreckan

Southern shores of Mull

Puilladobhrain

More shots of the Moray Firth Dolphins

Total quiet

Oban

Lord of the Isles at Corpach

Heading South. Isle of Mull from The Lynn of Lorn

Ben Nevis

The last stretch before Corpach

Another group of happy walkers wave

A group of walkers wave

Ben Nevis from the Canal

On the way to Corpach

Jim and Ann in their floating home Widgeon of Fern

Jim and Ann, originally from St Helens, invited me aboard for a morning cuppa. They are the proud owners of this 1930s officers' boat. All teak - she is a work in progress. Beautiful.

Late evening near Fort Augustus

Moored up for a pint at Gairlochy

Having a rest

I now find myself at Corpach at the top of Neptune's Staircase, a seris of six or seven locks going down to the sea loch Loch Linnie. Corpach is the end of the Caledonian Canal. Loch Linnie is the beginning of the west coast for me. The Canal has been memorable - a great down wind sail down Loch Ness, had to motor through Loch Oich and beat upwind on Loch Lochy which was stunning. I didn't expect to like the Canal and the Lochs as much as thought I would. It's been very interesting. Amazing engineering when you think about it. Designed by Thomas Telford and over 200 years old. Now I'm heading for Oban and then on to Jura and Islay. But first a rest in Fort William - which is a couple of miles from here.

Lock gates at Moy on the Caledonian Canal

The Great Glen

Richard Strauss and Loch Ness

Urquart Castle Loch Ness

Mares tails over Loch Ness

Steve Feltham (see previous post)

Steve Feltham - Independent Loch Ness Monster Researcher

Steve gave up everything years ago, including his girlfriend, to establish himself on the shore of Loch Ness to keep an eye on the monster. He lives in an old mobile libary van which he has made extremely comfortable for himself. He even has a piano in there. If ever your visiting Loch Ness he's well worth a visit. He's at Dores Bay up at the north end of the Loch. He earns a living by making quality clay Loch Ness monsters available at a bargin price.

On Loch Ness

Dolphins in the Moray Firth and Mermy at anchor in Dores Bay at the northern end of Loch Ness

Motoring along the canal toward DochGarroch

Seaport Marina Inverness

Preparing to enter the first lock on the Caledonian - Clachnaharry

Leaving Arbroath (scroll down for the dolphins)

On the way to Arbroath after the fog

Unchronological posts

Just to let you know that some of the posts following the dolphins are from before the Moray Firth for reasons far to complicated to go into.

How cool was that?

DOLPHINS !!!

On the lookout for dolphin

Captain Thompson of the Antarctic

Aye ... the seas were big off Rattray ... aaayeee ...

I am now at the beginning of the Caledonian Canal in Seaport Marina Inverness. I haven’t had a chance to update the site due to poor Wi-Fi signal in Peterhead and Lossiemouth. What a trek this has been so far! If I am honest it has been rather grim with 15 days of almost constant northerlies and 3 scares. At the same time I really feel like I have achieved something just by struggling to get up and beyond the NE coast of Scotland, particularly around Rattray Head which really kept me on my toes. The boat got slapped around quite a bit but it looked after me and rode over each wave confidently. It would have been fool hardy to attempt this in my previous boat – a lightly built 19 ft twin keeler. I must admit Rattray Head was scary. I set off from Peterhead at around 4am to catch the north going tide and kept over 4 mile out as advised but the northerly force 3 – 4 transpired to be more of a 4 – 5 with gusts of 6 and a hefty chop developed quite quickly. The sea seemed very confused. On top of this the sky turned black and it began to rain. Waves began washing over the bow and Mermy started to get slammed about quite a bit. I wanted my mam and began worshipping the mighty Neptune immediately. It was unrelenting for about 4 or 5 hours and I was glued to the helm throughout it all. The auto helm would have been useless. It finally eased off as I passed Whitehills near Banff. With great relief I finally made it to Lossiemouth – a beautiful little haven with RAF Tornados screaming overhead every so often. Well I suppose the lads have to practice, don’t they. I was met by Ian the Harbour Master who was extremely welcoming and helpful. Thanks Ian, I really enjoyed my wind down in Lossie.

Peterhead

On a lighter note Darren and his bat dog Libby in her life jacket

My home for the last 5 days - spot the little red boat

Anyone out there got any good pressure cooker recipes?

Return to Stonehaven

I'm starting to lose count as to how many days I've been here - I think this is day 5. The wind was supposed to shift to the NW today which would have allowed me to close haul up to Peterhead but it never did. Ventured out on the ebb tide but it was just hard on the nose with quite a chop making it uncomfortable motoring. Breaking waves coming over the bow and I knew once the tide stream turned north it would just get worse so after about a mile turned around and headed back to Stoney. The harbour master remarked when I threw him a line - "Haven't I seen you before?" Still tomorrow looks promising with the wind backing to the SW which would be ideal to get me up to Peterhead. Anyway had a small session in the pub last night with two lads from Fleetwood - Keith and Dave who are also doing RB.

Well hopefully my next post will be from Peterhead or Whitehills on th north coast.

June 9th. Still in Stonehaven

Really getting to know Stonehaven well now! Strong noreasterlies and a rough sea stop me from going anywhere except the pub which I'm keeping away from for the time being. I've had 3 yachts moored up next to me 2 of which are doing round Britain but luckily for them they're going clockwise with the wind!! Woke up this morning to discover all the fishing boats had retired to the inner harbour as a swell had developed in the outer harbour where I am. Ian, a fisherman with a boat called Cleopatra very kindly lent me two huge fenders to keep me well off the harbour wall. Cheers Ian. But it looks like another roller coaster night's sleep again tonight. The weather and wind have to turn soon !! Bought myself a pressure cooker so going to put it to the test and cook myself a chicken in white wine dinner this evening. Good to hear from you this morning Martin.

Stonehaven in June

Dunottar Castle Stonehaven

Mermy in Arbroath

Eyemouth to Arbroath passage. Sorry previous post should be before this one.

Set a course direct for Stonehaven which took me well out to sea- some 13 miles east of the Isle of May. This was the first time I'd ever sailed toward the horizon with no land visible in the distance - quite unnerving for me. Roughly half way through the 65 mile passage right in the middle of the Firth of Forth the wind picked up to about a force 5 a big swell developed and I found myself shrouded in thick fog. Not nice and don't wish to be in that position again. Contacted Forth coastguard who were really helpful and reassuring. I gave them my position twice over the next hour until the fog cleared and the sun came out. They also kept me informed of any major shipping movements in my immediate area. Changed course to Arbroath as the wind wasn't favourable for reaching Stonehaven. Arbroath finally appeared on the horizon after almost 12 hours. Had to heave to off Arbroath for just over an hour to wait for the lock gates to open into the inner basin where the pontoons are located. Moored up and went for a pint of Guiness. Phew!

Stuck in Stonehaven

Well I've been stuck in Stonehaven now for 3 days. Northerlies and fog and the wind is forcast to strengthen from the north over the next few days. The harbour master here - Jim Brown is a really sound guy and seems fairly laid back about my over stay as long as there is enough room. Fortunately Stonehaven is an interesting place to be holed up for a few days. Yesterday I visited the beautiful Dunottar Castle just south of here - a formidable looking ruin on a cliff top. Magic place.

So I hope to go around the corner very soon and line myself up for the Caledonian Canal and Loch Ness.

Chancer the parrot - Eyemouth - Don't mess with him he's Scottish and hard!!!!

Idyllic early morning anchorage in the Kettle on the east side of the Inner Farne

Tied up in Eyemouth

Cheviot from 2 miles offshore from Berwick

Mermy Eyemouth

Bamburgh Castle viewed from the Kettle - Farne Islands

North!!!!!!!

News Blackout

Sorry for the delay in news. There haven't been many places with wifi where I've been. To cut a long story short - I left Blyth at around 7am on Tuesday June 1st. Miserable overcast morning. Dad came down to wave me off. Reliable as ever. He's with me all the way on this trip. Not literally if you get what I mean. He put some work in on the prep side of things - like the worst job of scraping off all the anti-foul. But I know he secretly in a wierd kind of way enjoyed it. Cheers Dad!!!

Well first night was spent in Newton Haven - very peaceful anchorage then the next day motored to the Kettle ( a sheltered bay on east of Inner Farne ) where I had breakfast in idyllic summer weather. Same day sailed to Eyemouth where I remain waiting for my good friend the wind to take me further north. Hoping to get to Stonehaven just south of Aberdeen tomorrow.